IoT: The Internet of Trenchcoats
Burberry: Capitalizing on digital technology to revitalize an iconic brand.
Luxury and the Fourth Industrial Revolution
Burberry鈥檚 business model successfully pivoted from the traditional to the digital in an attempt to differentiate itself by connecting to millennials. Connectivity has been 鈥渄ubbed the Fourth Industrial Revolution鈥 and is 鈥渃haracterized by a fusion of technologies that is blurring the lines between the physical, digital and biological spheres鈥漑1]. One could make the mistaken assumption that a brand historically associated with raincoats would be impervious to digitalization. Instead, this post suggests the luxury industry is experiencing rapid change and firms would benefit from following Burberry鈥檚 integration of the physical and digital realms. However, while Burberry has taken bold steps to position itself as a technologically savvy brand there is still room for improvement from an operational standpoint. Burberry should continue to invest in new聽technologies as it executes its customer promise: delivering the message, the feeling and the products customers expect of Britain鈥檚 leading luxury brand.
Why is Luxury at the Forefront of Change?
In 2014 online sales accounted for 鈥6% 鈥╫f the 鈧224 billion global market for luxury goods, but drove 80鈥% of growth鈥 and this trend is only expected to increase [2]. However, traditional brand loyalty does not necessarily translate to online presence: 鈥渂rand equity that took decades (if not centuries) to build does not transfer proportionately online鈥漑2]. The diagram below shows how the 鈥渓uxury market remains heavily fragmented in terms of offline sales, where as few as 7 brands generate over half of site visits鈥漑2]. This suggests that brands that invest in improving their digital presence will benefit disproportionally in terms of online engagement and potential sales. Burberry was a leader in anticipating this trend and adapting accordingly. As described by Angela Ahrendts (CEO 2006-2014): 鈥淓verything we are going to do is target this millennial consumer, and if we do that we are going to speak in their language, and their language is rapidly becoming digital鈥澛燵3].
How is Burberry Using Digital Technology to Develop its Business Model?
Burberry has embraced technology as a tool to create a deeper emotional connection between the brand and consumers. For example, Burberry鈥檚 monthly acoustic initiative streams live concerts from their flagship store to another 150 stores and mobile devices. Burberry picks local artists to reinforce the 鈥淏ritishness鈥 of the brand and create more authentic connections with consumers through music in today鈥檚 Youtube world. However, what really sets Burberry apart is its ability to blur the lines between the digital and physical in what some have described as a 鈥減hygital鈥 business strategy [4]. 聽For instance, Burberry recently added 鈥渕agic mirrors in their fitting rooms鈥 the mirror reads the tag of the items and shows a film of how the garment was made and what it looked like on the catwalk鈥 (see video below)[4]. 聽Burberry is ultimately able to聽express聽the firm’s聽heritage聽with a modern twist, through聽magic mirrors and streamed concerts, among other mediums.
Additional Operational Initiatives To Consider
Burberry has already made improvements aimed at aligning operations with its business strategy. According to the company, 鈥渃onsistent with our broader focus on merging the鈥 physical and digital, we made further investments to 鈥╡nsure our customers have a seamless experience of 鈥╰he brand鈥his included the expansion of our single pool of inventory鈥漑5]. The latter provided better visibility of stock, improved product availability and meaningfully reduced delivery times. 鈥ˋdditional investments could include:
- Radio-frequency Identification (RFID): codes garments in logistic centers and provides up-to-date information at any point during the distribution process; helps identify which garments need to be replaced in real-time to more accurately reflect demand and avoid bullwhip effects upstream.
- Expand functionality of fitting room mirrors: ability to request another size without having to leave fitting room. Display information on what past customers purchasing this garment have bought, similar to Amazon鈥檚 recommendations.
Why does this matter?
This post sought to explore a brand focused around an iconic product that might not have been greatly affected by technology. Instead, by embracing change Burberry has been able to differentiate itself and capture more value from the customer. When Ahrendts became CEO in 2006, 鈥淏urberry was growing at only 2% a year鈥 but by 鈥渢he end of fiscal 2012, Burberry鈥檚 revenues and operating income had doubled over the previous five years鈥 [6]. For traditional brick-and-mortar companies, the digital wave has created new growth channels 鈥 in 2016 digital commerce remained Burberry鈥檚 鈥渇astest growing channel, up 22% at constant exchange rates鈥 [7]. However, it is important to keep the following in mind: 鈥淓-commerce is only one aspect of the digital opportunity鈥n additional 40% of luxury purchases are in some way influenced by consumers鈥 digital experience鈥 [8]. Luxury firms聽that invest in聽“phygital” integration may discover new ways to revitalize聽their brand identity and fuel growth.
Word Count:聽786
References
[1] Euromonitor Passport. 鈥2016 Digital Consumer Index: Identifying The Next Digital Frontiers鈥, Oct. 2016, p. 7.
[2] L2 Digital IQ Index. 鈥淔ashion鈥, Nov. 30th 2015, p. 2.
[3]
[4] Dauriz, Linda, Nathalie Remy, and Nicola Sandri. “Luxury Shopping in the Digital Age.” McKinsey & Company, 01 May 2014. Web. 17 Nov. 2016.
[5] Burberry 2015 Annual Report, page 13
[6] Ahrendts, Angela. “Burberry’s CEO on Turning an Aging British Icon into a Global Luxury Brand.” 性视界 Business Review, 31 July 2014. Web. 17 Nov. 2016.
[7] Burberry 2015 Annual Report, page 27
[8] Dauriz, Linda, Nathalie Remy, and Nicola Sandri. “Luxury Shopping in the Digital Age.” McKinsey & Company, 01 May 2014. Web. 17 Nov. 2016.




Maria, really interesting post!
I thought this was a great example of a company using digital technology very effectively in an unexpected way. One might think that high-tech customer interfaces would be antithetical to the Burberry brand image of a traditional 19th century clothing company; however, the video you shared drove home that retailers can creatively employ cutting-edge technology while still maintaining the look and feel of their brand identity.
This post made me realize that the 鈥渂rick and mortar鈥 retail experience鈥攁 model that has been relatively static over the past few decades鈥攊s likely to evolve meaningfully as companies find ways to use technology to improve the customer experience. I really liked your ideas on improving the fitting room experience with additional sizes on demand and 鈥渃ustomers also bought鈥 information. As I read this, another idea I contemplated was using digital technology to improve the fitting process. 3D scanners could figure out a person鈥檚 dimensions and then recommend a specific size / style for a clothing item. Farther in the future, perhaps retailers could use this 3D rendering to direct machines to instantaneously alter garments for the perfect fit. It seems like a number of startups are already working on technology of this sort (one interesting example: ).
Maria,
Very interesting post. I typically think of e-commerce as the main digital component of retail; however, this post clearly outlines that digital transformation reaches far beyond online sales. The digitization of the purchase process provides a wealth of data that likely leads to potential improvements in forecasting and inventory management. What impact does the digitization of purchases have on the bottom line for Burberry? I assume the operational efficiency drives significant profit improvement? Additionally, this post shows that the e-commerce arm is growing at a double digit rate. How will this impact the future operating model of Burberry? Will they scale back on brick and mortar stores with large inventory and shift towards digitally equip show rooms? Will they scale back on physical assets and decrease labor force as the online segment goes? How will the retail the luxury quality of the brand as things move increasingly digital?
Great article, Maria! I understand the impact that that digital sales and marketing trends have on luxury retailers, but this is the first time that I鈥檝e heard of a 鈥減hygital鈥 business strategy. I was blown away by the concept of Burberry鈥檚 digital store 鈥 it looks like something out of Blade Runner! I wonder what customers will value most, in the years ahead, when they walk into brick-and-mortar luxury retails shops: will they welcome the continuation of the same stream of digital marketing and advertising that already pervades every other screen in their lives? Or would many prefer a respite from the noise 鈥 a chance to engage with their considered purchases in peace, with a bit of personalized attention from a traditional sales attendant?
Interesting post! I agree with Dean that I expected to read about e-commerce when I clicked on this post since it is the main digital component of retail. I like the idea of adding functionalities to the fitting room mirrors, which could potentially drive additional sales by recommending matching outfits or shoes. However, these initiatives are largely dependent on physical stores as you mention the concept of “phygital”. I would be interested to know more about Burberry’s attempt to utilize digital or mobile platforms to increase consumers’ digital experience if there are any.
Maria,
Great post! Who would have thought a Trenchcoat company would be using digital technologies in their retail store. I was wondering what if Burberry could take this technology to their core trenchcoat product – perhaps integrate bluetooth in their coats and have an inbuilt headphone. This is obviously just a simple use case – one could obviously think of cooler applications. While, I don’t think there would be necessarily strong demand for such items – this would be in line with the modern brand image they are trying to communicate. Thoughts?
Maria – great article. Burberry certainly is leading when it comes to reinvigorating an iconic brand and expanding beyond the boundaries of what we defined as their scope (the trench) to a wider more digital range. One thought that comes to mind is the risk this transparency could create for copy cats. As the company builds such a robust digital experience, could this content be easily poached by others in the fashion space. What is the risk of fake companies reverse engineering clothing to create products that are indistinguishable. In addition, what about hackers who could use the digital store as a portal to “break into” the burberry back end and steal customer information? Clearly in addition to creating a strong digital presence Burberry will also need to safeguard this data and content to prevent issues that undermine the trust of its customers and consumers.
This post got me thinking about the rather unique challenges luxury brands are facing in the digitization era. Although it might be obvious for more mainstream brands like Zara and Asos to focus their efforts and capital on online platforms – not to mention market entrants who couldn’t afford to pursue brick & mortar strategies even if they wanted to – luxury brands may feel the need to make the shift more slowly in order to maintain the “elite” standing that enables them to sell at such high price points. At some point, even the luxury segment will need to get up to speed as millennials value time and convenience above all else. I’m liking Burberry’s hybrid approach to digitization, especially the emphasis on innovating within customer-facing stores. Although brands like Chanel and Celine have clung on to more traditional offline approaches to retail with some success, we’re starting to see a few high-end brands like Louis Vuitton join the e-commerce club and develop an online presence; I expect Burberry’s innovation efforts will pay off as other luxury retailers struggle to catch up.